| Jabiru J400 Builder
Log - January 2006
1/31/2006 4:45pm-10:13pm
1) pulled the aileron cables and the nav/strobe light electrical
cables through the wings... i though it was going to be tougher
but turns out that it wasn't all that bad
2) cut the aileron cable holes at the wing tip and pulled the cables
through... attached cables to aileron horns and then drilled and
installed aileron brackets into place using bolts
3) installed throttle idle stoppers according to the photos...since
there's no instructions i had to guesstimate here on what parts
to use...
4) so i reworked the rudder cable anchor at the tail...it turns
out that there were retaining nuts for the rudder cable on the parts
card that was not mentioned on the manual...much better idea and
easier to work with... now it's easy to tighten the bolts
1/28/2006 5:47pm-10:16pm
1) after a lot of lazying around I installed the fuel fitting to
the firewall and attached the fuel line between the firewall and
fuel pump on the engine... didn't attach the cabin side of the fitting
because the engine instrument I purchased came with fuel flow and
fuel pressure meters...i think these go on that side
2) drilled and siliconed the belly strobe with taxi light under
the pilot side... once the silicone dries I will epoxy the nuts
on the inside to make sure it stays firmly attached
1/26/2006 5:11pm-10:41pm
1) checked the patched glasswork in the header tank area...looks
good and it's ready to refit the header tank correctly
2) redrilled all the header tank fitting holes including the quick
drain... it seems that the header tank now fits properly and the
fitting does not rub up against the brake pushrod... the grommets
were reinserted into the the center console.
3) installed all fuel lines through the sides of the fuselage all
the way to the fuel pump including through the header tank...
4) installed the quick drain fittings into the wings... then flocked
the quick drain covers into place on the wing and the belly cover
for the header tank... used 3 oz of aeropoxy...current temp is 63F
1/24/2006 5:21pm-10:14pm
1) removed the masking tape off of the front wheel spat
2) attached all the fittings to the wing tanks..such as the finger
filters... used liquid thread sealer from loctite...also removed
the teflon from header tank fittings and used the loctite thread
sealer on them
3) re-fitted the header tank into the passenger seat...it seems
that the header tank was fitted to close to the center console and
so the fittings went through the console and rubbed up against the
hand break pushrod...therefore the tank had to be refitted...also,
since the three fitting holes in the center console were too big
from a previous error, i reglassed those holes and will redo the
holes with grommets when the glass dries... used aeropoxy...center
console holes have about 6 layers of wicks glass S type...
1/20/06 2:22pm-11:47pm
1) took a look at the HID bracket that was glassed... looks fine..
put the HID lamp tot he bracket and it's starting to look real good...some
sanding to take the edges of and it should be quite nice
2) made some cuts on the HID bracket in order to clear the engine
and the exhaust pipes... also drilled and used 6-1.5" stainless
steel screws with washers to hold HID in bracket... no rubber gasket
was used but probably will need to find one... i've read HIDs aren't
sensitive to vibration because they don't have filaments...either
way, i have time to find some sort of rubber for a gasket... looks
sharp... also made a heat shield for the rear side of the HID...
not sure if it needs it but since the exhaust pipe is about one
inch away, i've decided to make one... the HID is actually in a
place where it'll get lots of air stream past it since it's nearly
under one of the air ducts... i think that's it for the HID
3) finished out the front wheel spat by attaching the top part to
the bottom with aeropoxy flox... made 1.5 oz amount...current temp
is 60F
1/18/2005 7:20pm-12:20pm
1) removed the peel-ply from the fiberglass plate made for the hid
bracket..measured the plate... 14 layers turned out to be about
1/4 inch thick plate using wicks glass and aeropoxy
2) marked the pattern for the HID bracket on the glass plate and
cut the patters out of it... trimmed them..and sanded...
3) glassed the HID bracket to the HID housing on the cowl with a
mixture of 1.5oz aeropoxy... current temp about 60F
1/15/2006 7:00pm-10:36pm
1) removed the peel-cloth off of my HID bracket glass plate... it
seems the plate with 8 layers was less than 1/8 inch and i thought
i'd fatten it up with 6 more layers... so i glassed the 6 more layers
with another 3oz of aeropoxy pr2032...getting the hang of this glassing
thing..
2) bought a 250w heat lamp to heat up the area i'm working in quicker...
not sure its what it's cracked up to be... will probably return
it and get another type of heater
3) riveted the throttle bracket to the main console after fitting
both ends properly... cut the throttle stop as indicated and then
cut and flocked with aeropoxy.... i'm trying to save the LC3600
for structural applications since i don't have much left... not
sure that i will need any though
1/13/2006 5:06pm-11:11pm
1) cut up 8 layers of glass to make the HID brackets that will hold
the actual HID light... used Aeropoxy for the epoxy...took a 3 oz
and 1.5 mixture to do all layers... peel-clothed it and set some
books on it to cure flat
2) got the new rivets in the mail... the 5/32 rivets worked great
on the trim tabs on the elevator with the washers... the 1/8 are
definitely too small
3) threaded the throtle cable through the center console
4) bolted the front rudder cable mount into place
5) attached throttle cable to throttle lever
1/11/2006 5:50pm-10:12pm
1) bolted the rudder cable at the tail in order to find the correct
position to bolt at the front...however, i decided to put in the
steering link assembly before doing the final bolting at the front
2) drilled and fitted the steering link assembly...since there's
practicly no instructions, i had to refer to the photos provided...however,
i'm not sure if i should have routed the links on the outside of
the pedals instead of the inside... the clearance between the steering
link and the nose wheel rear bars is practicly nil.. in the picture
it looks like they are using an old version of the nosegear assembly...
it seems to work... but doesn't seem to travel far enough... will
have to play with it the next time i'm here so that i can attach
the front rudder cable
1/10/2006 4:30pm-10:21pm
1) started triming the HID light enclosure on the cowl... it seems
that the dimmension came out well and the light should fit about
where expected... the many layers of fiberglass resulted in nearly
a 1/4 inch shell (thinner in certain parts) which is way thicker
than needed but since it was my first official custom part, it wasn't
bad at all... now i have an idea of how many layers correlate to
thickness more or less... it looks nice and that's the bottom line
at this point... tried the trimmed cowl on and it may need some
more trimming for engine clearance
2) trimmed the rubber off of the rudder pedals were necessary...reattached
pedals to fuselage and attached rudder cable to pedals
1/9/2006 6:09pm-10:15pm
1) rubberized the rudder pedals one last time... it's to make it
smooth but it's more a functional role than an aesthetic one...i
think it looks fine
2) removed my HID light and the cone shaped form that i used to
glass over... the aluminum didn't stick to the glass but it didn't
leave a very smooth surface anyway...so it will need some smoothing..
but it looks like it's the right shape and size for the HID light..
will have to trim it and finish off with the remaining construction...
i will need to order more glass however since i used up nearly the
whole yard for the cone so far...
3) trimmed the flap handle assembly so that the handle locks into
each of the 3 positions securely...wouldn't want to be on final
with 3rd notch of flaps and have the handle come off its notch...
wouldn't be pretty
4) drilled the firewall and fit the throttle cable through
1/7/2006 7:40pm-1:34pm
1) got the HID light today... light seems a bit bigger than i expected
and so it'll be trickier to fit it in the cowl without rubbing up
against the engine exhaust... so i found a place on the passenger
side bottom cowl... see pictures to see how i did it.. essentially
it took a lot of layers ...not sure how many i need nor do i know
if it's enough... but I used nearly a yard of fiberglass on it..
current temp is 64F used 3 batches of 3oz Aeropoxy (didn't want
to use the LC3600 since i only have a bit left)...also...the glass
was not AF303...if i'm going to guess there may be about 10 layers
of fiberglass on this cone for the hid..hope it comes out nice!
1/6/2006 9:13pm-12:52pm
1) tricia is in the shop today... so i put her to work.. she painted
the rudder pedals with this plastic dip thing... this rubber coating
should be quite nice on the feet
2) didn't like where the carb muff was so i moved it back on the
muffler...had to cut the rear side of it so that the exhaust pipes
are partially cut into the muff
3) finished out the hand brake control and the trim... they look
good
1/5/2006 6:08pm-10:10pm
1) trimmed and sanded the cowl NACA duct and air dam for the oil
cooler...tried the bottom cowl in place and the oil cooler air dam
seems to be well aligned with oil cooler
2) installed scat hose from naca duct to air box... also installed
the cabin heater air box and riveted to firewall... firewall metal
is tough to cut but a dremel works... siliconed the cabin heat air
box on the cabin side...
3) plugged the spark plugs cables through the air ram ducts and
plugged them into the plugs... assembled the air ram ducts into
place...i think i'll have to remove the air ram ducts one last time
to remove the oil from the cylinders before running engine... but
i think it's good for now
1/3/2005 3:40PM-11:48pm
1) fitted the ram air air pipes that bleed air to the coils... i
had to cut them to shape and the air ram duct to fit through....
once fitted, 5 minute epoxied them in place... since there's no
instructions, i have no idea if this is good enough or if it needs
LC3600...it looks strong enough though
2) installed the muffler.. at least temporarily.. no spring was
attached.. not sure how far back it should go...
3) installed the cabin heat muff and the carb heat muff on the muffler...
of course it's a new style muffler and so neither manual is correct
on where to position either muff... this cabin heat kit is actually
provided/designed by USjabiru ... anyway... carb heat muff is under
the muffler and i'm not so sure that's a good idea.. maybe i should
swap positions... also... carb muff slots for clamp don't work because
it's a new muffler.. had to elongate the slots on the carb heat
muff.. found out that the dremel bits that work well on aluminum
don't seem to work well on the carb muff which i think is some sort
of steel or such.. and vice versa...
1/2/2006 7:45pm-9:50pm
1) removed the cowl and glassed/flocked the NACA scoop, oil cooler
air dam, and one of the tinnerman holes on the cowl that was slightly
damaged on a previous cowl removal (cowl sprung abround hanging
on one tinnerman and screw)... used one batch of 2oz epoxy and 0.8
batch to finish up
1/1/2006 4:18pm-11:31pm
1) wow... 2006 already?... so much for completion by December 05...
work really bogged me down the last two months so i didn't get to
work as much as the first two months... so the new target is sometime
2/2006...hmmm
2) removed the lower cowl and drilled and riveted the correct location
for the oil cooler bracket..turns out the back rear previously made
drill is the correct location for the front hole on the bracket...had
to redo the oil drain safety wire and drill two holes through the
bracket for it
3) drilled the oil cooler holes through the brackets and attached
cooler using bolts and fireproof nuts provided (tinnerman washers
and such were specified in the manual however)... used the bundy
tube and inserted tube through the grommets holding oil cooler before
attaching.. i presume this is what it's for (bundy provided on oil
cooler card)..
4) installed both oil filter attachments and installed all oil hoses
with clamps
5) 5 minute epoxied the oil cooler air dam into place
6) 5 minute epoxied the NACA duct on the bottom left hand side of
the cowl... cut the cowl to the NACA ducts shape...
7) will have to glass and/or flock (LC3600) both NACA and air damn
the next time i'm here
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